...I asked Quest for their opinion on how well shorter sections would flex for shorter sections for the arch, but they didn't respond. To be fair, if they did advise and a pole did happen to crack, they could have comebacks. So you're on your own. (the Syclone set from Tentpole Tech is 7 section with more manageable pole lengths with a prebent alu centre section) - when I get around to getting another set I'll have a go at shortening the 3.9 poles just out of interest. I reckon a 7 pole set would work now having seen how flexible the 18" sections are, but you then have the extra insert weight, so, for now I'm sticking with the 18" - and just stay mindful of the exposed ends... A 7 section 3.9 set should come in at under 100gms though.
Drapers elastic used for shock cord - think it's around 1.5mm.

... The end pieces are subject to a whole article... Nordisk chose to go with a ball & socket arrangement for the ends and theirs actually screw into the pole's end. Tent Pole Tech had push fit alu ball ends to fit the Syclone, but I don't think they have them to fit the smaller dia 3.9. Quest don't have them, but said they'll look into it.
So the solution is to drill a plastic ball and fit it onto the end of the std end piece inserts. If you got a lathe you are well set - I used a hand drill, and it's pure luck how central you can drill thal 9mm ball! Mine were a little oversize (came from a Wilko's cupboard child locks with 10mm ball ends) and needed turning down to 9.2mm to make a good click fit - not an easy feat with a hand held drill lol. But they seem secure enough. Another option would be to aquire some of the larger Syclone fittings and get them turned down to fit the 3.9 tube as the ball's the right size (and they would be stronger), also you could adapt the ones supplied, but you may well want to preserve the integrity of the original set-up.

Pole Bag (plastic)- 3gms - not yet confirmed

Pegs (titanium:3*5g + 7*2g) in self-seal bag - 29 gms
Minimal - could well swap a few of those at last minute for some of the original V pegs supplied...

All this reduces the 'race weight' to 469 gms, which is pretty good for a tent, though there those that will insist it will blow away were you to sneeze within a hundred yards of it.

The other thing to note about the Lofoten is the incredibly slippery sil nylon. Stuff or roll? That is the question. When I go for roll, I think stuff would be better, but then when stuffing seem to revert to thinking rolling's better... I just need to find a consistent method for getting it back into its small stuff sack...


Next up Ground Insulation.

Ground Insulation

Mylar Footprint - 20 gms
Groundsheet protection.

Klymit Inertia X Lite (modified) - 161gms
173 gms as delivered - air pump valve removed - apparently these can be further modified, though there's not much to modify! Resealed using repair kit. Later version has a declared weight of 152 gms...

Ridgerest off-cut (pack insert) - 27 gms
As pack insert to add some form. Ridges help with air flow over a flat foam pad. Sadly inaccessible on move to use as sit mat.

Reflective Thin foam Underlay - 35 gms
As sit mat folded, otherwise leg insulation under sleeping bag.

Total 243 gms - all itmes double as emergency warm wear.

Potential for 234 gms..?

Up next - Sleeping Bag

Well it doesn't always work... The last empty box was some extra thoughts on Ground Insulation - typed straight into box not copy and paste...

Well that worked so:

Sleeping Bag:
PHD Minim 900 (no zip) modified by replacing drawcord with draper's elastic and smaller toggle (which does take some feeling about for in the dark...)

Stuff bag - still working on this - now favouring a dry bag liner (just for essential dry items) made out of thicker bin liner with heat sealer, with a thinner stuff bag to fit inside. With a stronger outer bag stuff bag can be forced in sideways which aids compression and seals stuff bag.
Also in stuff bag my super light homemade silk liner at 45 gms. With the compression effect of the outer dry bag it doesn't take up any more space.

Total: 457 gms (includes stuff bag but not dry bag wt.)

Next up: Wet Wear

Berghaus Vapour light (Lge) 80 gms
Disp. O/Trousers (emergency use only) 45gms
Total: 125 gms

I have yet to succeed in getting overtrousers on before getting wet! The worse conditions ever encountered on the c2c (or anywhere else for that matter) was when I went W-E via Hard Knott and Wrynose - cutting over the hill to Greenburn what I described at the time as a 'wall of water' came over the ridge. I did manage to get the brolly up and hold onto it cowering in the lee of a lge boulder.
Chilled and soaked to the skin, it was a miserable descent to the bridge over the beck... and still left a wet patch of floor in the hotel at Waterhead after a further 7m. Later that year of course they suffered water issues of their own that no overtrousers would put right.
Of course, getting wet's not the problem, but the chilling it causes most certainly is! So more windproofs than waterproofs then...
Putting jkts and overtrousers on too early is not good for ultra pedding. Too many times I pass over clad walkers puffing uphill using vital energy stores in lost sweat! The saying 'stay cool' wasn't invented by hippies, more likely track runners who learned to ditch track suits. I used to know a guy who believed the more you sweat in a workout the more effect gained. I tried to tell him that all he was doing was acclimatising himself to elevated body heat during exercise, but to no avail - he still thinks the more he sweats the 'better' his workout...

...and so to the 'cooking stuff'.
Anyone who's followed the 5 day thread will know that I have, as Ronald Turnbull succinctly puts it 'failed at the eating' a few times in the past in relying on others to put food in front of me (good when it works...) So in an effort to be more self-reliant the plan was to carry more of the 'cooking stuff'.
I haven't carried a pan other than the upcycled alu dog food tray for many years, mainly for a hot drink or to add hot water to some instant mash or porridge...