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#47423 - 02/06/09 09:27 PM Half C2C
Oldun Offline
Full Member

Registered: 01/12/04
Posts: 1750
Loc: Renens, Vaud, Switzerland
Just thought I would let you know that I have just returned after walking from St. Bees to Richmond. I had previously walked the complete C2C five years ago, but this time I wanted to enjoy a sauntering walk, taking photos and leaving out the boring bits like the cliffs at St. Bees and Dent.

For interest, this was my itinery:

Day 1. St.Bees to Ennerdale Bridge 8.6 mls/3hrs 20 mins walk
Day 2. Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite 16.0mls/6hrs 48 mins
Day 3. Rosthwaite to Grasmere 8.5mls/4hrs 30 mins
Day 4. Grasmere to Patterdale 8.75mls /4 hrs 12 mins
Day 5. Patterdale to Bampton Grange 13.75mls/6 hrs 45 mins
Day 6. Bampton Grange to Shap 5.4mls /2 hrs 12 mins
Day 7. Shap to Orton 9.4mls/3hrs 44 mins
Day 8. Orton to Kirkby Stephen 12.5mls / 5hrs
Day 9. Kirkby Stephen to Keld 11.6mls / 5hrs
Day 10. Keld to Reeth 14.4mls / 5hrs 45mins
Day 11. Reeth to Richmond 10.6mls / 4hrs 20 mins

After a time lapse of 5 years it was interesting to see the effects of erosion on places like the descent to Grasmere from Greenup Edge; the whole of the path from Grasmere to Patterdale, especially the descent from Grisedale Tarn and the descent from Kidsey Pike. The general opinion was that the descent from Kidstey Howes to Haweswater would be very dangerous in wet weather owing to the angle of descent and the lack of a firm footing. I was surprised to see a great improvement in the Loft Beck climb and the descent to the slate museum. A lot of work has been carried out on the length of the path from Black Sail to this museum.

The other change was the cost of B&Bís on route. 5 years ago I got away with 35 pounds per night plus 8 pounds for a meal and pint. Now in the same locations I am paying 40 to 50 pounds per night, plus 25 pounds for meal and pint. The extra costs involved were a major factor in cutting short the walk.

Another observation would be never to stay in the Black Bull at Reeth again. Lousy rooms, lousy food and a take it or leave it attitude.

By the way, the owner of the 2 pubs at Ennerdale Bridge ran out of food. What I did finally get was over cooked and over priced.

My compliments once again go to Sherpa Van for an impeccable service through out the 12 days.

Meet some lovely people on the way. The over population of the stages from Grasmere to Patterdale and Reeth to Richmond made map reading totally unnecessary.

Indeed, 5 years ago the path designations were very few and far between. Now it would seem that every locality has put up footpath signs and opened a C2C tea shop selling cream teas.

I think that the rule for the C2C now days is that if you think you are lost, wait 15 mins for the next group to pass through.

Transport wise, I flew in to Manchester Airport and got the train direct to St. Bees via Barrow in Furness. For the return trip, a bus from Richmond to Darlington and a train direct to Manchester Airport. No sweat: all very civilised.

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#47425 - 03/06/09 02:30 AM Re: Half C2C [Re: Oldun]
flatlands Offline
Full Member

Registered: 04/06/07
Posts: 496
That is good idea, doing a half of C2C in 11 days. I would like to do the same in a few years time, having done the whole of the coast to coast a few weeks back. Next year, it's looking like Pennine Way. But if I do the coast to coast, then it will from Kirkby Stephen to Robin Hood's Bay. Things are much too dear in the lakes and I found that the further east you go, the cheaper it get's. I was camping at the Lion Inn, very friendly, let us camp in the beer garden for £2.50, great food. I had T-Bone for £16, great value and the beer's good too.

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#47430 - 03/06/09 09:38 AM Re: Half C2C [Re: flatlands]
RichardJ Offline
Full Member

Registered: 10/02/00
Posts: 160
Loc: Warrington, UK
Interesting comments. I did the route a few weeks ago and Loft Beck was almost a delight to walk up. Little evidence of the horrible scree that I remember from before.

Greenup to Easedale was badly eroded. I can't remember it being any different, but that's probably my bad memory.

I avoided Kidsty Howes by going over High and Low Raise. We had good weather and it was an excellent ridge walk - in fact a highlight.

I encountered two sets of people doing "half C2Cs" although as a pedant I would say more like two thirds. The first group did as you did, the second (a couple of very agreeable gentlemen from Nottinghamshire) started in Keld and finished at RHB. Perhaps not as scenic as the first two thirds, but for them a good introduction to a LDW.

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#47432 - 03/06/09 01:27 PM Re: Half C2C [Re: RichardJ]
tim smith Offline
Full Member

Registered: 28/10/06
Posts: 1054
Loc: england
Oldun,
yes according to the miles and the time taken , it looks as though you walked to enjoy, well done . as to cost. in 1991 when i finished the walked with a companion i met up with at the Black Sail Y.H. He said then " Wainwright did not write a route, he created a business"
i have talked to business men, and when i have hinted that their prices are high, the answer i get is we go as high as the customer is prepared to pay.it is not a matter of fair profit.
if all walkers enquired the price and refused to book at extortionate prices they would have to come down in price.
Will some of these B&B's price themselves out of the market.
the first time i walked the C2c i was backpacking with a walking companion and total cost £1.50 in camping fees.
we did not count food as one has to eat where ever one is and a lot of it was what we carried.not much spare cash then.
we saw one lad with all his gear in a plastic carrier bag.
Hal said "look that lad is sponsored by Tesco"
_________________________
ern

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#47433 - 03/06/09 02:56 PM Re: Half C2C [Re: tim smith]
Old Bill Offline
Full Member

Registered: 25/05/09
Posts: 65
Loc: London
"The over population of the stages from Grasmere to Patterdale and Reeth to Richmond made map reading totally unnecessary."

Oh dear - that almost puts me off wanting to do it...
_________________________
http://anicewalk.wordpress.com

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#47441 - 03/06/09 07:11 PM Re: Half C2C [Re: Old Bill]
Oldun Offline
Full Member

Registered: 01/12/04
Posts: 1750
Loc: Renens, Vaud, Switzerland
Although there were lots of people on the route there was always plenty of enjoyable chatter and banter when passing. All except at the weekends when the day trippers took to the hills. Couldn't get a smile or a greeting out of any of them. When passing groups of city folk out for a pic nic in the hills there was always a hush descended upon them and a lot of nudging going on, with knowledgeable pointing at us with their heads. Self consciously I would check my flies to see if anything was hanging out.

At the weekends there were also groups young children on "mountain bikes" crashing down the steep rocky hill sides, being chased by puffing, sweaty, out of condition, Dads.

It was at the weekends I felt like a total outsider trying to excuse my self for being in the city folks way while they were enjoying themselves, strewing rubbish and noise over the hill sides.

Week days brought back normality and peace. But it made me wonder for how much longer the lake lands will strand up to the onslaught of humanity and business enterprises.

Maybe I am exagerating a bit, but when I was last in the lake lands it was a marvel of peace, space and serenity.

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#47445 - 03/06/09 10:29 PM Re: Half C2C [Re: Oldun]
tim smith Offline
Full Member

Registered: 28/10/06
Posts: 1054
Loc: england
Originally Posted By: Oldun
Although there were lots of people on the route there was always plenty of enjoyable chatter and banter when passing. All except at the weekends when the day trippers took to the hills. Couldn't get a smile or a greeting out of any of them. When passing groups of city folk out for a pic nic in the hills there was always a hush descended upon them and a lot of nudging going on, with knowledgeable pointing at us with their heads. Self consciously I would check my flies to see if anything was hanging out.

At the weekends there were also groups young children on "mountain bikes" crashing down the steep rocky hill sides, being chased by puffing, sweaty, out of condition, Dads.

It was at the weekends I felt like a total outsider trying to excuse my self for being in the city folks way while they were enjoying themselves, strewing rubbish and noise over the hill sides.

Week days brought back normality and peace. But it made me wonder for how much longer the lake lands will strand up to the onslaught of humanity and business enterprises.

Maybe I am exagerating a bit, but when I was last in the lake lands it was a marvel of peace, space and serenity.


Yes Oldun, i may be repeating myself,
but years ago on the pennine way, we had walked for a week and hardly seen anyone, all was quite and peaceful.
so at Kisdon Force i thought i would have a freshen up and stripped off and got stood under the waterfall. i was enjoying it, when a mate shouted "look out" he was to late before i could take cover a bus load of weekend walkers emerged round the bend.
_________________________
ern

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#47451 - 04/06/09 03:33 PM Re: Half C2C [Re: tim smith]
Oldun Offline
Full Member

Registered: 01/12/04
Posts: 1750
Loc: Renens, Vaud, Switzerland
Yes Oldun, i may be repeating myself,
but years ago on the pennine way, we had walked for a week and hardly seen anyone, all was quite and peaceful.
so at Kisdon Force i thought i would have a freshen up and stripped off and got stood under the waterfall. i was enjoying it, when a mate shouted "look out" he was to late before i could take cover a bus load of weekend walkers emerged round the bend. [/quote]

What a ghastly shock for them!

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#47452 - 04/06/09 04:32 PM Re: Half C2C [Re: Oldun]
tim smith Offline
Full Member

Registered: 28/10/06
Posts: 1054
Loc: england
yes
they kept on walking
_________________________
ern

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#47467 - 05/06/09 12:00 AM Re: Half C2C [Re: tim smith]
m/ark Offline
Full Member

Registered: 10/05/09
Posts: 559
Loc: Cirencester.
Now in the same locations I am paying 40 to 50 pounds per night, plus 25 pounds for meal and pint. The extra costs involved were a major factor in cutting short the walk./////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

fourteen days at 25 pounds a head for me and my son for an evening meal £700.00 and camping costs £150. travel £100.00 thats £950.00 without a packed lunch or brekfast priced in to the euquation. at these costs I could go to the the french alps and still have change in my pocket.

simple if they are charging this much I will self cook or change my plan and do the penine way instead. I think if you are willing to pay these rates then why compain, you should have told them where to shove it. the more people do this then they will have no choice but to reduce the prices, you need to start acting like a consumer and not sombody who is easly exploited.

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